Quote:
Originally Posted by ZeRo_C0oL
Sealed is for clarity. Ported is for thump
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Not necessarily, it's all in design. Any speaker will work in any enclosure, but may not perform well, for what your looking for. There is actually a bit of math involved. Believe it of not I can put a sub into a ported box and make it sound amazingly "clear", but , in general, the enclosure would be impractically large. I have also gotten amazing thump out of a sealed box.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cakes982
Sealed or ported also depends on what a particular speaker needs to perform to its full potential. It really is a detailed science, its crazy how just being off in any dimention will make or break the sound. Ports to long, to short, chambers to big, to small, even materials used to make the box, all play a part in making it sound right.
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True, though there is soom room for error in design. Most small differences would be inaudable to all but the most discerning of listeners.
And sealed vs. ported has less to do with the speaker and more to do with desired sound and practicallity of enclose size/design.
For example we once designed and built an amazing "sound quality" enclosure for a Image Dynamics 15" sub, but this thing was a bitch to build. It was a HUGE ported enclosure with a GIANT port. the port was so big that we had to make it very odd shaped to get the sub in around it and to fit the port in, with that, much of it was outside the enclosure! Even with how great it was, we only did it once, because it was way too damn impractical for just about every other customer's desires and vehicle. That was one of the things with the JL W6, almost nobody would even think of putting it in a ported box (we were the only dumb asses), but tell you what, with a good amount of power, they sounded great and pounded in ported boxes, just had very odd port dimmensions. If I recall correctly it was about 50 sq in surface area (about 8' diamter if your using a round port) by about 19 in long, about a 955" port volume. and keep in mind the mouth of the port must be at least the distance of the measurement of it's surface dimension away from the facing side, so in other words, if you used a round port, it's mouth must be 8.5" away from the inside wall it's facing (must account for the .25" material on each side that the port was made uf). Well beyond the patience of most installers.
Also don't forget about "cabin gain/interference" which is the effect of the interior and placement of the enclosure. Even the type of vehicle makes a big difference.
We used to use a specific computer program (VERY EXPENSIVE) to design our enclosures for diffrent applications.
The AG360 is such a great value, great bang for your buck amp! I'm guessing you had 2 channels bridged to the subs. I would use a high efficiency sub, such as the W0's you had. For a good current model to use, look at the JL W1, or (my preference) Image Dynamics iD, the JL W3 or IDQ subs would also work well, but I for the power you have you won't get the best out of them. Make sure you have a total of a 4 ohm rating, for example 2 ID's in dual 4 ohm, seriese the two coils on each, then parallel the subs to the amp using the mono output of the rear two channels.
I would use the front channels of the amp to power the two front speakers, and just use radio power on the rears. Actually most of my cars, and many of the best sounding in the world didn't have any rears for music.